Now untie the rope from your harness.” At that point I intervened and asked if she’d weight-tested her connection. Now unclip the slings from your harness and clip them to the anchor.” “OK.” “I’m giving you slack-you good?” “I’m good.” “OK. It went something like this: “Now make sure you’re on the ledge, standing on good feet, and you can reach the anchor.” “OK.
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Not safe.Īt Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, I overheard a belayer teaching his climber how to clean a sport anchor from the ground. Safest option: traditional rappel, extended and backed up with a friction hitch. Even if your harness does (or you wear you harness backwards), Aussie rappels still involve setting up a system that you trust your life to behind your back, where it’s hard to see. Most harnesses don’t have load-bearing loops on the back. An Aussie rappel requires you to run your rope through a rappel device on the back of your harness. The largest nuts are usually only rated to around 10 kn.Īs for the face-first rappel (commonly called an Australian-style rappel), they make descents a lot more dangerous. This makes your rope the weakest link in the system, and rope breaks are pretty rare under best practices. Try to have all of your pieces add up to at least 28 kn. This also violates another primary rule of anchor building: it should be strong. It’s best to shoot for three pieces of solid gear in case anything goes wrong with one, or two. A single nut is perfectly capable of holding a body weight rappel under ideal conditions, but ideal conditions aren’t something you can plan for. One of the primary criteria for anchor building is that it should be redundant.
![gaia project app gaia project app](https://mir-s3-cdn-cf.behance.net/project_modules/disp/63143b11137087.560f24a65f3c5.png)
LESSON: Unless these guys were an Australian special forces unit, storming your crag, this is a bad idea for many reasons.
![gaia project app gaia project app](https://projectgaia.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/dnateBAWEB.jpg)
We politely asked if they planned to put another piece in their anchor, and they said, “No. They placed one wire at the top of an overhung, 100-foot face, then threw themselves off it into face-first rappels.
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